Beth Harmon faced a “sudden death.”
The fictional chess star won his childhood as an orphan, struggled with addiction to pills and alcohol, and was able to make it to the World Championships in Russia. The problem now? He had spent his money on clothes and could not afford his $ 3,000 trip to the biggest game of all time.
“You can give me a black dress,” Bethany’s friend suggests in the “Queen’s Combid” episode. “Or something purple.”
Beth laughs and denies both offers.
In a field dominated by men, thick glasses and inappropriate white button-down shirts, Beth Harmon is the epitome of style. Yes, he is a character created from the Walter Davis novel of the same name, now adorned by Gabriel Binder in a successful Netflix series. But somehow, he can broker an introduction from the world of chess to the world of fashion, which is a beautiful pair.
“At first glance, chess is not stylish and fashionable, but players make choices about the clothes they wear and why they should wear it,” Ms Binder said of Zoom from her home in Berlin, who wore a simple black shirt with no waist up. These choices are important, he believes. “It gives them good luck or gives them a good experience.”
The “Queen’s Gambit” takes place in the 1960s, when only a handful of American and Russian players were in the major leagues. Ms. Binder looked back at the way men dressed, they had “geeky, ugly fashion”. The appearance of the women was similar. Beth, played by Anya Taylor-Joy, is ugly. It could be a game changer. As it were.
“Chess will never be the same,” said Kathleen Sheehan, professor and executive chairman of FIT’s Fashion Design MFA program in New York. “This story brings international charm, humanity and related history to the game of chess. Each time the scene changed, I was excited to see what she would wear next.”
Mrs. inspired by Eddie Sedwick, Jean Seberg, Pierre Cardin and Balenciaga. Binder has made a name for himself by taking the bet through his chess tournaments in Las Vegas, Paris and Moscow since his orphan days in Kentucky. Less than a dozen costumes do not have the geometric shapes that mimic the chessboard, but Ms. Binder would not do anything as obvious as printing a chessboard on a top or skirt.
Instead, for example, Beth lowered the white button fitted to a simple checkered sleeveless dress in the chess world, not far from the style of the time. She was desperately trying to find her own way in the fashion and chess scene – her dress reflects this, Ms Binder said. By the end of the series, Beth was out to a chess queen paired with a white hat in a white woolen coat.
There is also makeup, which helps Beth transform from an orphan into a high-glam chess starlet, which reflects his mood along the way (like a floating eyeliner look to underline a hangover). “It’s an exaggerated makeup to support the fact that she’s not really fit the idea of a chess player, but she’s really herself,” Ms Binder said. “It’s kind of like, ‘This is me, I’m fragile.'”
Fragile, yet chic.
Two-time American women’s chess champion and U.S. player in Philadelphia. Jennifer Shahade, project director for women at Chess, said she has always seen the game as a fascinating sport. Mrs. Shahade was able to feast with her colleagues on the Sabbaths; He left the country to play in the World Youth Championship in Brazil for the first time in his 15s; He celebrated his 16th birthday for another chess trip in Iceland. This is a side of chess that players outside of the game do not always need to see.
“Glamor was the opposite and the opposite of my work ethic,” Ms Shahde said. “The interplay between chess and glamor is nothing new, but this is the first time I’ve seen it portrayed so brilliantly on screen, which leads to even higher imagination.”
While this is not the first time chess has entered the fashion scene, it may be the biggest move ever made.
In 2005, Alexander McQueen did a chess-inspired fashion show during which a chessboard was projected on the floor and each model represented a chess piece. Then, at the 2010 New York Fashion Week, Amsterdam’s brand G-Star featured Grandmaster Magnus Carlsen playing chess before the runway show. G-Star Mr. He also created an advertising campaign around Carlson.
Still, fashion and chess never really gel. The World Chess Hall of Fame merged with the St. Louis Fashion Fund in 2018, challenging new designers to create stylish chess costumes. Spoiler Warning: The Grandmasters continue to play their usual simple black suits.
“Even though the best grandmasters dressed better than they did 15 years ago, there is a way to recognize America’s best players, Fabiano Caruana and Hikaru Nagamura, as a style icon,” said chess photographer and broadcaster Lenard Oates. Amsterdam. “Chess has been featured in countless movies and commercials as a metaphor for strategic decisions, but you will never see a chess player on a red carpet.”
Now that the “Queen’s Compete” has arrived, chess seems to have a fashion moment. The “Keith Herring: Radiation Compete” exhibition opens at the World Chess Hall of Fame in late November. Mr. This includes Harring’s custom street art chess set.
A project is also planned Michael Drummond, a St. Louis fashion designer, was featured on the “Project Runway” at the Chess Hall of Fame. His exhibition, “Playing”, uses the figures of chess as a metaphor to see the effects of fashion and climate. (We’re here for a black mini dress made of chess pieces.)
Now, the costumes of “The Queen’s Competition” can be seen in a virtual exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum, which will showcase the costumes of the show along with Netflix, as well as the costumes of “The Crown”.
The bad news, however, is that none of these glamorous Queen Gambit outfits are available in stores. Ms. Binder made them all specifically for the bed, or bought them from clothing stores. So when shopping for them, it’s your move.